The clashing patterns and bright colours of womenâ€™s dresses.
The magical light that has drawn artists there for centuries. Smooth, rich and soft.
Not just one gold tooth but a whole mouth full.
Mosques but not much sign of religion being practised â€“ perhaps out of fear? Even the slightest sign of something that could be â€˜extremistâ€™ could send you to prison.
Tea houses layered with carpets. Men draped over them, bowl in hand.
No graffiti. No litter.
A wind that suddenly whips up from nowhere, tugging at the trees and making whirlpools of dust on the street.
Mulberries and apricots raining down from the trees.